Showing posts with label Scapa Flow. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Scapa Flow. Show all posts

Tuesday, 12 May 2020

The Churchill Barriers 75 Years

Today is the 75th Anniversary of the opening of 
the Churchill Barriers.
D52/4_007
They were officially opened by First Lord of the Admiralty 
Albert Victor Alexander on the 12th May 1945.  

The Churchill Barriers are a series of causeways built to block the eastern approaches to Orkney's large natural harbour, Scapa Flow, which was being used as a base for the British Fleet in World War II.  In October 1939 German submarine U47 found a way through the existing blockships in one of these approaches, named Kirk Sound, and torpedoed HMS Royal Oak at anchor in Scapa Flow. The battleship sank with the loss of over 800 lives. In response, the First Lord of the Admiralty Mr Winston Churchill instigated the design and building of the barriers and personally visited the site on the 9th March 1940. They are now road links to the islands of South Ronaldsay, Burray, Glimps Holm, Lamb Holm and the Mainland of Orkney. 
Barriers looking south-west from Kirk Sound 

Though built as Barriers during a war, they have always brought people together. 

1940s

Construction: The design and construction of the barriers brought together the great civil engineers of the time. Experiments were carried out at Whitworth Engineering Laboratories at Manchester University, led by Professor A H Gibson. "The Scheme was designed and supervised by the Civil Engineer-in-Chief of the Admiralty, Sir Arthur Whitaker, K.C.B.. M.Eng., M.I.C.E. and was carried out under the direction of Mr H. B. Hurst, M.I.C.E., until succeeded by Mr C. K. Johnston-Burt, B.Sc., M.I.C.E., Dr Herbert Chatley, M.I.C.E. and J. A. Seath, B.Sc, M.I.C.E. 
Mr E. K. Adamson, M.I.C.E., was Resident Superintending Civil Engineer from April 1940 until March 1942, when he was succeeded by Mr G. G. Nicol, D.S.O., M.I.C.E., who was in charge until completion... Mr S.C.Doughty, A.M.I.C.E., who was Assistant Resident Engineer from the end of 1941 until completion." 
The firm of Balfour Beatty & Co. were contracted to build the barriers. "Mr A.M. McTaggart, Director of Civil Engineering Works, Mr Alexander Ross, M.I.C.E., and Mr A. B. Sharp, jun., M.I.C.E., who was agent in charge from May 1942." written by J. A. Seath, B.Sc., M.I.C.E in 1946


"The force of the currents which prevail even in the unobstructed portions of the Sounds are too great for the adoption of methods involving divers work and the nature of the bottom precludes work being done from piled structures. Further the contours of the sea bed and the small range of tide in the Orkneys renders impracticable the use of prefabricated structures floated and sunk into position. There remains, therefore, as the only permanent and practical method capable of ready adoption, the construction of tipped stone or concrete block embankments
written by Arthur Whitaker, Civil Engineer-in-Chief, 12th March 1940

The three designs adopted, figure (a) in 1940, very little of the filling had been placed when labour and material difficulties made it essential to seek a more economical section, but by that time it had been decided to adopt the "bolster" as a method of placing rock fill, see figure (b) . The causeways were more or less built to this design, except that the embankment was heightened, narrowed, and provided with a roadway at 10 feet above High Water of Spring Tides, see figure (c).
"Time and the urgency of the work did not permit of the fabrication of cableways specially designed for the work and recourse had of necessity to be made to existing equipment. Four electrically-driven cableways which had been in use on the construction of the Kut barrages across the Tigris in Iraq were obtained and a steam-driven cableway was procured from a bridge construction work at Dornie in Scotland." written by James A Seath, B.Sc., M.I.C.E. in 1946.

Cableway across Kirk Sound, August 1943.
Orcadian Memories: "They started to put them up in 1942 from then on they used to sling stuff between the two uprights on the various islands and dump it in the sea." Bill Hewison, Orkney Sound Archive

Orcadian Memories: "As you go past Burray you'll see huge stone structures there. These were the foundation posts for the stone crushers. There were huge mixing units for concrete. There was a lot of machinery there to make and build up the blocks." Sandy Wylie, Orkney Sound Archive. 


Orcadian Memories: There were 10 ton blocks and 5 ton blocks and these were stocked very high up like pyramids for the causeway when the rubble had been planted.
Sandy Wylie, Orkney Sound Archive. 


Orcadian Memories: "Gradually they spread out and gradually the work began to take shape. Number 3 was a steam cableway, it came up to us complete and all we had to do was erect it. The other 3 cableways were electric and had to be adapted before they could be erected so No. 3 got away to a jolly good start and that causeway began to appear above the water. You could go across it when I left in '42. You couldn't cross No. 1 or No.2 and 4 hadn't started." 
Henry Ridelaugh, Orkney Sound Archive
Weddel Sound Causeway - well advanced 1943
View of Kirk Sound Causeway with temporary works traffic road at right and water supply main to Lamb Holm in centre. Note the rock filled bolster nets. October 1943.

Labour: As there was no spare labour force on Orkney, Balfour Beatty had to bring workers up from south and find accommodation for them. The first 230 men arrived on 12th May 1940 on board the liner Almanzora along with machinery and other supplies. The ship was then used as accommodation for six months until camps could be built in the islands. Many of these men did not like working in Orkney in the harsh weather conditions and were transferred back south. By the end of 1941 the project needed many more men if it was to be completed quickly. Thanks to the progress of the war in North Africa, there was soon a large number of Italian prisoners of war available. 

At first there was a problem. The Italians felt that this was war work. According to the Geneva Convention of 1929 relating to POWs, they should not be compelled to contribute to it. It was finally ruled that because the causeways would be of service to the community after the war, it was not war work.

 Roads Executive Committee, Item 11
Rock Works: There was submitted letter (1106) from the Deputy District Commissioner asking that the County Council should consider making representations in connection with the Admiralty Scheme at Rock Works to the effect that the barrage should have a sufficiently wide top or a sufficiently well finished top above water so that it would be possible to construct a road from the Mainland to South Ronaldshay." 
Orkney County Council Minutes 14th July 1942.

Italian POWs: "On February 23rd 1942 we were allocated to Orkney Islands and sailed from Aberdeen to reach that destination. Five hundred POWs were assigned to Camp 60 on Lamb Holm, five hundred and fifty three to Camp 34 on Burray. Immediately after our arrival, the workers teams were set up starting to work, alternatively during the day at Causeways Transport Road Construction as part of original Project about the linking of four small islands as military defence of 'Scapa Flow Bay' against Enemies Submarine actions.
"The statue of St George was built first. It shows the patron saint of soldiers ready to kill the dragon. It is a concrete representation of the desire to eliminate all evil, all wars that cause pain and injustice to so many people. It is the symbol of a will to "kill" all misunderstandings among people of different culture.
"After a short transient period characterised by few incomprehensions a real cooperation among the British Staff led by Colonel Buckland, the Balfour Beatty Building Company Technical Representatives and Sergeant Major G Fornasier and Sergeant Bertone (respectively Commandants of 60 and 34 Camps) started and lasted for the remaining period of permanence of POWs on the Islands. 


"The POWs carried on their jobs seriously and productively even if the job itself and living conditions were not so easy. Many subjects fell ill with psychological problems, some due to homesickness and difficulty to get used to the different weather conditions, some due to both conditions. To make their recovery easier the other POWs got conscious of a deeper spiritual involvement for them, this is the true reason of the Italian Chapel building standing on Lamb Holm Island.

The artwork in the Chapel was designed and painted by Domenico Chiocchetti
"When the POWS left in September 1944, the major part of the work was completed, only asphalting and guard rails were missing on the constructed roads." 
Quotes from Bruno Volpi, Secretary of the Ex POWs Association in 1995. 

Orcadian Memories: "I had rings and things that were made by the POWs. There was one ring that was made out of half of a crown. And there was another made out of a piece of brass, and there was ML on it, that's my initials. And another thing that is history, one day in 1942, I got a bit o cardboard stuck under me door. And i wondered what it was. And I picked it up, and do you know what was written on it? 'I love the little blond, one million of kiss. Thank you of the smiles'. It was from one of the Italians.
Mima Louttit was head cook in the Mess Tent at St Mary's Camp

The card, left at Mima's door, which she kept all her life.

Roads Executive Committee, Item 22
Road at Graemeshall"Mr P N S Graeme intimated that the present method whereby material is tipped into hoppers on the roadway between St Mary's and Graemeshall was dangerous to the public using the road and it was agreed that the Surveyor should be instructed to make sure that the notice boards at either end of the road advising the public that they should use the road at their own risk are in proper order, and that a further advertisement in this connection should be placed in the local press.Orkney County Council Minutes, 9th August 1942.

Orcadian Memories:"The Italians were very temperamental, very romantic they missed their womenfolk terribly. They were home loving chaps with bairns at home and we used to hear about them and through the Red Cross they got packages, they were very happy when they heard from home. I've often seen them make spaghetti, they'd get some flour meal rolled it out, cut it up in strips and dried it out in the sun or near the fire and they made coffee. They were allowed coffee ad lib but we were not allowed any coffee during wartime it was in short supply, but it was the Italians main drink.   
On one occasion they wanted to start an orchestra and they couldn't get any instruments to buy, so they appealed to me could I get something, so I had 2 violins at that time, so I sold them one just to make them happy." Sandy Annal, Orkney Sound Archive 

Roads Executive Committee, Item 5 
Barrier Roads: "The Chairman intimated to the Committee that the Agreement between the Council and the Admiralty with regard to the future maintenance of the barrier roads had been completed." 
Orkney County Council, 8th May 1945 

The Opening Ceremony took place on the 12th May 1945
One of the completed barrier roadways

After officially opening the Barriers, Mr Alexander was given a commemorative brochure to keep.

First impressions
County Home Outing reported in Orkney Herald, 7th August 1945

Repairs
Roads Executive Committee, 27th June 1947, Item 1 Barrier Roads: 
"The Surveyor reported that the Superintending Civil Engineer, after consulting with the Admiralty, had decided that works of a major nature would be required immediately on No. 1 Barrier between St Mary's and Lamb Holm while works on the other barrier roads would also be required. 
These works would make it necessary to close No. 1 Barrier for a period of three months, but it was hoped that arrangements might be made to allow foot passengers to cross the barrier at their own risk outwith working hours." 
Orkney County Council Minutes

Roads Executive Committee, Item 10 Barrier Roads: 
"With further reference to the closure of the barrier roads for major repairs, the County Surveyor reported that it had now been arranged that there should be a weekly sailing from Scapa to St Margaret's Hope for the purpose of conveyance of goods and stock. In addition the proprietor of the bus service operating the route had made arrangements to carry on his service as usual and had made provisions for a motor boat to convey passengers between St Mary's and Lamb Holm."
Orkney County Council Minutes, 1st July 1947

The roads continued to be closed during the summers of 1948 and 1949 while major repairs were carried out to each of the barriers. 
Causeway Opening Times from Orkney Herald, May 1949.
1950s

Lectures: In the 1950s Mr G Gordon Nicol embarked on a Lecture Tour talking about the building of the Barriers. He was Superintending Civil Engineer on the project for the Admiralty from March 1942 until completion. It is his photographs (with accompanying notes) which are shown in this blog. 

New Connections: In the Fifeshire Advertiser, 4th August 1956 the Reverend Mr Johnston praised Orcadians at a Kirkcaldy Rotary Talk, "As a result of his industry the Orcadian has become a comparatively well-off person. As a result of the war the roads have been greatly improved and the various smaller islands have been given access to the main island by the Churchill Barriers which have been built after a German submarine managed to enter Scapa Flow and sink one of our ships. These barriers have made a tremendous difference to the people living in the smaller islands. Previously, in order to to Kirkwall to transact business, they had to make the journey by boat and this took a whole day. Now they can travel to Kirkwall by bus in about an hour so that they could go to the pictures or a dance and home again with ease. This has brought them into contact with the life and social activity of the main island."

Officially named by the Ordnance Survey, 4th June 1957 as the Churchill Barriers


Orkney County Council Minutes
1960s

Preserving the Chapel: A few years after the war, realising that the Italian Chapel was a real work of art, an Orkney Committee was formed by the Sutherland Graeme family to carry out some restoration work and, through a programme on the BBC Italian Service, it was possible to establish contact with some of the Italians who had taken part in the building of the church.  In the 1960s, some of these Italians returned to complete and repair work on the Chapel, including Domenico Chiocchetti. He and his wife, Maria, were given a civic reception in 1964 by Kirkwall Town Council. 
The altar in the Italian Chapel

Connection with Caithness?: A new ferry service was proposed from Burwick to Caithness in 1969. 

Aberdeen Press & Journal 28 February 1969

1970s

However the proposal was turned down by the Orkney County Council  eventually in 1972 as the councillors favoured the further development of the Stromness-Scrabster link.

More repairs
A brief note in the Aberdeen Press & Journal, 27th February 1977

1990s

Chapel Remembrance: "The 50th Anniversary of The Chapel (3rd- 6th June 1992) was recently marked by an historic pilgrimage of eight ex-prisoners and their families, a group of 18 people who journeyed from Italy to visit the site. Domenico Chiochetti, now 83, was unable to travel but was represented by his daughter Letizia.
The purpose of their presence was to build...the now famous Churchill Barrier. Anyone who has driven from Kirkwall to St Margaret's Hope cannot fail to be impressed by the sheer scale of the engineering feat.. It is an historic drive of breathtakingly scenic yet macabre proportions
Quoted from article by Terri Colpi, in Rivista, the Journal of the British-Italian Society, published in August 1992

Barriers Remembrance: The 50th Anniversary of the Barriers was held in Holm Parish Church on the 12th May 1995.  The people came together to celebrate Causeways Linking Communities led by the Reverend Joan H Craig, who also wrote a poem for the occasion. Bruno Volpi contributed to the Order of Service saying "Today we celebrate the 50th Anniversary of the Causeways opening. While we voice our happiness for the participation in the Ceremony, we wish to proclaim ourselves to be very proud of our contribution to Orkney's increasing economy. Many years have passed since then. Political and social conditions evolved in both our countries. We hope that the evidence of our cooperation carried on during those difficult years should become an example to be followed by next generations."

2000s

Photo of Barrier taken in 2014

Recognition and the Future: "Two of the four of the Churchill Barriers have been listed by Historic Environment Scotland for the first time. They will be listed at Category A - the highest status for listing. This means that they are recognised as being of national or international importance. Only around 8% of Scotland's 47,000 listed sites are recognised at this category. 
Following a period of consultation and assessment by HES barriers No. 3 and No. 4 are now listed. Because of longstanding development proposals affecting primarily barriers No.1 and No. 2, HES did not consider it appropriate to list these two structures. 
James Stockan, chair of Orkney Island Council's Development and Infrastructure Committee, said, "The Churchill Barriers are as important today as when they were first built, providing lifeline links between three of our inhabited islands.
They are recognised worldwide as unique monuments that serve as a powerful reminder of Orkney's wartime past. Barriers No.1 and No.2 are, of course, equally important. It is welcome that we have time to explore interest among developers in the two barriers forming part of a tidal energy generation project, along with ways to address wave over topping during severe winter weather."
 The Orcadian newspaper 25th November 2016.


Sources used:
Archives: 
CO3/1/10-13; CO3/1/24 Orkney County Council Minute Books;   
D1/167/1 Report on the closing of the Eastern Sounds of Scapa Flow by F.A. Whitaker [ADM1/10643]; 
D52 The Gordon Nicol Papers; 
D1/349/2 Italian Chapel papers; 
OSA/RO7/248 & 249 Transcription of Radio Orkney Programme Famous Orkney Landmarks featuring Bill Hewison, Sandy Annal, Sandy Wylie and Henry Ridelaugh. 
Acc2269 The papers of Mima Louttit. 
Books: 
Bolsters, Blocks, Barriers by Alastair and Anne Cormack, 1992 (Orkney Room Ref:627 Y)
Causeways Closing Scapa Flow, two papers presented to the Institute of Civil Engineers by Jack Allen and J A Seath in 1946. (Orkney Room ref: 627 Y)
Periodicals:
Orkney Herald newspaper
The Orcadian newspaper
Aberdeen Press & Journal newspaper

Monday, 31 December 2018

Iolaire Tragedy

Today our thoughts are with the people of the Island of Lewis over in the Western Isles who lost so many family and friends on the night of the 31st December 1918/1st January 1919. Tragedy struck when the HM Yacht Iolaire was wrecked off the harbour of Stornoway and many servicemen on their way home for leave lost their lives.

Here is how it was reported in The Orcadian newspaper on Thursday 9th January 1919:

NAVAL DISASTER NEAR STORNOWAY - Over 200 Lives Lost

In the early hours of Wednesday morning last week just outside the harbour of Stornoway and within a few yards of their native shore, over 200 Lewismen lost their lives under most distressing circumstances. Some 500 soldiers and sailors were coming to the island on New Year leave. The numbers were beyond the capacity of the mail steamer Sheila, and some 200 naval ratings were being conveyed from Kyle of Lochalsh to Stornoway on board HM yacht Iolaire, which in addition carried a crew of 24. The ship which was in charge of Commander Mason, left Kyle about 8pm, an hour ahead of the Sheila. She had an excellent passage across the Minch with a fair wind from the south freshening as the voyage proceeded.
HM Yacht Iolaire
Between 1 and 2 o'clock am she was approaching Stornoway Harbour, the lights on Arnish Point and the beacon off the harbour entrance being quite visible. The passengers were in high spirits, eagerly anticipating their New Year holiday. For some reason quite inexplicable, the vessel, instead of turning into Stornoway Harbour, proceeded right across the harbour mouth and ran ashore at full speed near Holm head. By this time the wind had increased to the force of a moderate gale, and there was a high sea running on the leeshore, where the Iolaire had struck.

Some interesting narratives have been gleaned from survivors, who unfortunately are few.



GREAT PANIC ON BOARD

A young naval reservist said -

"It was very dark there being no moon, but the atmosphere was clear, and lights were distinctly visible at a great distance. As we were approaching Arnish Lighthouse we commenced getting our kits together, expecting to be safely alongside Stornoway Pier in a few minutes. It was about ten minutes to two and I was in the saloon when there came a great crash, and the vessel heeled heavily to starboard. It was so dark that we could not see the land, which, as afterwards transpired, was only thirty yards distant from the point where we struck. I don't think it was a rock we struck, but just that we ran ashore.
When the ship listed the seas came breaking over, and I should say forty or fifty men jumped overboard. I think everyone of them was drowned. There was a great panic on board. Two life-boats were launched, and both were swamped. From the first one man scrambled back on board. With this exception I think all the men who went into the boats were drowned. When the Iolaire struck she was bow on to the land, but about ten minutes afterwards she lifted and drove a little seawards, afterwards coming in stern first and falling broadside to the shore. Rockets were fired, and by their light I could see that her stern was not more than seven yards from a ledge of rocks jutting out from the shore, and amidships she was within twenty yards of the only available place for landing. The seas were breaking over the stern, but many were tempted to try to reach the rocks, which were so near.
I don't think any of them succeeded, for there was a very strong current running between the ship's stern and the ledge of rocks, and I believe there were scores of men dashed to death against the rocks. When the second or third rocket went up I observed a line hanging into the sea from one of the davits amidships, and as the vessel being broadside on, was breaking the force of the sea on the shore at this part, I let myself down by the line, got hold of a bit of the wreckage, and tried to make the shore. However I got entangled in the ropes hanging from one of the boats that had been swamped. I managed to get clear, however, and finally reached the shore.
As far as I know, I was the first man to get to land. I went out on the ledge of rocks towards the stern of the ship to see if I could get a line passed to me from those on board, but the sea was breaking over the rocks. I was twice washed off the ledge. I then saw that another man had got ashore where I had landed, and he had a life-line with him by means of which we got a hawser ashore. All the men who were saved scrambled ashore by the aid of this rope. I cannot say how many there were. Ultimately the Iolaire fell off to port and the hawser snapped.
I was very exhausted and dazed, and was wandering about for an hour or two before I found the farmhouse where all of us who got ashore were hospitably entertained."

Another young Lewisman who had joined voluntarily since the war began said this was his third experience of being shipwrecked. He was on the auxiliary cruiser Avenger, which was torpedoed and lost out from Scapa Flow, and subsequently on the auxiliary cruiser Champagne, which was torpedoed and lost in the Irish Channel. He said he was in the saloon when the Iolaire struck. He got ashore by means of the rope. As the vessel was swinging out and in, the rope was by turns slack and taut, and several of the men who tried to save themselves by means of it failed to retain their grip and were shaken off and drowned when the rope with a snap became suddenly taut.
After the hull of the Iolaire disappeared, one plucky lad, Donald Morrison, of 7 Knockard, continued to hang onto the mast. It was impossible to render assistance from the sea owing to the position of the wreck. When the storm subsided Morrison was taken off in a very exhausted condition after being eight hours in his precarious perch.
HMY Iolaire Disaster Marker
STORNOWAY, FRIDAY [3rd Jan]
It was ascertained at the local office of the Admiralty to-day that there are at least 75 survivors of the disaster which occurred on New Year's morning. The names of 67 of the men who were on leave and 5 of the crew of the Iolaire were supplied, and it was added that there were three other men who were known to have escaped, but who had not reported at the office, with the result that full particulars regarding them are lacking. There is, further, a possibility that one or two other survivors may turn up. A few men, immediately they reached safety, made for their homes on the island, and all the survivors are now scattered over the various hamlets to which they belong.
The number of the crew is now known definitely to have been 23, and the estimate of the strength of the contingent of leave men who were allotted to the yacht is today given authoritatively as 250, a total of 273 on board. The loss of life in the disaster may therefore be given as approximately 200 men.
A number of messages of sympathy were received yesterday in Stornoway including one from the King [George V]. It was as follows:-
"For the Rear-Admiral, officers and ratings, and relatives of those who lost their lives in HMY Iolaire.- His Majesty King and Queen were shocked to hear of the disaster which has overtaken the naval leave boat returning to Stornoway, and send their deepest sympathy to all the bereaved families."
The following reply was also despatched:-
"The Rear-Admiral, officers, ratings and relatives beg to thank their Majesties for their gracious message of sympathy, which will greatly assist those who are bereaved to bear their grief."
The work of recovering the bodies is still being carried out by Navy man with the assistances of some of the local fishermen. The weather has been possible to conduct dragging operations from small boats. Altogether 41 bodies were taken up to-day, bringing the total of the bodies recovered to 88. The bodies when found by the men in the small boats are taken to an Admiralty drifter, and thence conveyed to one of the harbour piers.


Commemorations are planned in the Western Isles today, see here for more information.


Saturday, 15 December 2018

Peace On Earth 1918 - An Archive Advent Calendar #15

Today's post continues with the German ships interned in Scapa Flow from the end of 1918. The Orkney Archive holds a typewritten memoir written by John J L Tulloch who was born in 1909. The account was written when Mr Tulloch was an older man and describes what life was like living on a farm on a small island in Scapa Flow during World War 1, the British Fleet, the Hampshire, the Churchill barriers, the Royal Oak.


He describes the arrival of the defeated Germans:


So on a dull November day the German High Sea Fleet with Rear Admiral Ludwig von Reuter in command steamed into Scapa Flow through Hoxa Sound with the dull winter sunshine glinting on their grey hulls. Line ahead they came escorted by British warships, those mighty leviathans of battle that had only ventured out once in full force at the Battle of Jutland from their snug havens in Germany.


The German ships ceased to become a novelty to the young lad:


My home stood near the shore on the West side therefore the battleships...became an everyday scene to me as the months went past, in fact some of them were so near to my home that on a calm day we could hear the sailors talking or singing quite clearly. On a Sunday a brass band on the S.M.S. Frederick derr Grosse used to play their German military tunes when the weather was good, so those great ships became a part of my childhood days...


John also remembers hearing the men at Christmas 1918:




Orkney Archive Reference D1/1100



Tuesday, 13 October 2009

Royal Oak


Tomorrow is the 70 year anniversary of the sinking of the Royal Oak (pictured c. 1927) in Scapa Flow, Orkney. The tragic loss of 833 men as well as a sturdy, seemingly indestructible battleship was a terrible shock for Britain so early on in the war.

The Royal Oak was torpedoed at 1.30am by a German submarine. U-47 was captained by Gunther Prien who went on to be awarded the Knight's Cross, Germany's highest honour.

When Winston Churchill, then First Lord of the Admiralty, heard the news he said 'Poor fellows, poor fellows, trapped in those black depths.'