20 Days of Orkney Trees # 20

Merry Christmas Eve dear readers! Surely, there are few sights more Christmassy than trees heavily-laden with snow. Today we bring you some extremely lovely snow-scenes from the Orkney Photographic Archive..


First of all, here are some pictures taken by Ian Tulloch after a snow storm in 1955:

Negative reference L 9479/3

Negative Reference L 9480/3

Negative reference L 9479/4

And these delights were taken by Tom Kent c.1900:

Tom Kent reference 3423



Tom Kent reference 3403 (detail)



Tom Kent reference 3436



Tom Kent reference 3446

We hope you have enjoyed our Christmassy, yet stubborn refusal to accept the myth that 'Orkney has no trees.' We may not have many, but we cherish the ones we have and will surely be adding to their number as time goes on.

Ah trees! God bless them every one!

Merry Christmas!



20 Days of Orkney Trees #19

'Anyone who plants a tree has faith in the future', Bessie Skea in 'A Countrywoman's Diary'


On Day 7, we quoted an interview with Jenny Taylor, in which she related the history and location of Orkney tree-planting. Jenny is known in Orkney as the 'tree-wife'. (Not because she is married to a tree you understand, 'wife' is an old North-East Scotland term for a woman.)


A landscape architect by training, Jenny ended up running the Orkney Woodland Development Project alongside her main job. The group's aim was to keep an eye on all proposed tree planting projects to ensure that they fit into the landscape and do not interfere with existing wildlife or archaeological sites of interest.


'The emphasis is on native species which are all propagated from Orkney seed and cuttings and which will hopefully adapt and evolve in the face of global warming.'


Jenny is the author of the Orkney Native Tree Conservation Strategy which is available in the Orkney Room and is a great overview of the history and future of Orkney's trees. It contains this plan of the tree cover which existed in Orkney in 1995:

As can be seen, the only native woodland left, (in fact the most Northerly native woodland in Britain) is Berriedale woods on Hoy. Berriedale is about a mile North of Rackwick Bay and is not extensive. It seems to be a small scrub of trees and shrubbery confined to a small valley as can be seen in the image below:

Image from Wiki Commons

The dominant tree is Birch but Grey Willow, Eared Willow, Rowan and Aspen have also been noted.There are a few more photos on the Orkney Woodland Project page too: http://www.orkneycommunities.co.uk/WOODLAND/index.asp?pageid=595130

At the end of the Orkney Native Tree Conservation Strategy, a number of possible future projects are listed. One fascinating area of research is whether or not the Berriedale woodland is 'moving', Birnam wood-style due to Birch trees regenerating on its edge.

If you feel inspired by all this tree talk and want to plant your own trees then you could consult our copy of 'Tree Planting in The Orkney Islands' in the Orkney Room. Those of you who are not Orkney residents can visit the Woodland Trust website for some advice.

No space to plant a tree of your own? No problem. You can plant trees from the comfort of your laptop by supporting these charities:

Woodland Trust

Trees For Life

Trees For Cities

Not far from Robin's bonfire site an apple-seed took root. I watched it through the summer, a green twig with two leaves, ...Yesterday I saw it again, a mere dry red-budded matchstick with one fallen leaf lying beside it...the thought came to me of the wise man who, when asked by his friend what his actions would be if he heard the world was to end tomorrow, replied: "I would still plant my little apple tree." Using a tin lid I scooped up the seedling and transplanted it in a sheltered corner of the garden; a very tiny apple tree, but a symbol, and a hope.

Bessie Skea in 'A Countrywoman's Calendar'

Information taken from:

Living Orkney #7

Tree Planting in Orkney published by Orkney Islands Council

Growth in Britain's Most Northerly Woodland by Chapman and Crawford

Orkney Native Tree Conservation Stratedgy by Jenny Taylor

A Countrywoman's Diary and A Countrywoman's Calendar, both by Bessie Skea.

20 Days of Orkney Trees #18

Just a couple of tree snippets today from our research this month:


First of all, even the birds became concerned about the lack of forests and began planting trees on Hoy...

Orkney Herald 10th February 1926

... and second, Stromness used to have a big tree too! Until 1926 that is...

Orkney Herald 24th February 1926

We checked the Stromness Town Council minutes for that time, but there was no mention of the tree removal. There is much talk about work being done in John Street to strengthen walls etc., so perhaps the tree was removed as part of that project.


We looked for a picture of the tree but unsuccessfully. Here is a lovely photo of tree-lined lovers' lane in Stromness instead:



Robertson collection 4596

20 Days of Orkney Trees #17

'Amid shouts and yells in the darkness of Christmas Eve, the youths and men dragged north or south, as Fate decided, the 'Yule Log'

George Mackay Brown, Under Brinkie's Brae

Although we have kept insisting that 'Orkney Has Trees' during this advent, it has become increasingly clear that, for a large number of years, the trees in Orkney were very few and far between and mainly cultivated in sheltered gardens or around big estates.


This is why the Stromness Christmas Eve tradition of a tug-of-war with the Yule Tree so exasperated the town council and those residents who had trees in their garden.


The Yule tree, or Yule log competition is similar to Kirkwall's Christmas and New Year Ba' games. Both involve a sweaty, wrestle through their respective streets with each town divided into two teams. In Kirkwall, Uppies compete with Doonies for control of the ba', whereas Stromnessians are divided into Northenders and Southenders. The two games have also necessitated the barricading of local businesses and co-operation from local authorities.


The best history of the game that we could find was in John Robertson's Uppies and Doonies which suggests that the game may have began before the late 1890s. The earliest mention Robertson found of the game was in 1907. Presumably, it was this report in the edition of The Orcadian dated 28th December 1907 (As you can see below, Stromness once also had their own Ba' games.):

A tree was chosen each year and chains or ropes were attached to either end to enable players to grab on. What could be the problem with this piece of light-hearted, community-binding fun? The answer is limited resources. As previously discussed, trees did not have much chance of making it to maturity in Orkney if they were not protected and encouraged which meant that many of the trees used in the yule-tied tug-of-war belonged to people.


Most of the trees were apparently stolen from gardens and Robertson tells of minister James Craigie, sitting up most of the night with his precious tree in order to keep it safe. He failed. Town youths manage to slip in anyway and cut the tree down. Rev. Craigie was very cross.


Eventually, in January 1933, the town council decided that enough was enough and that too much damage was being done to private properties. A restriction was placed upon the pinching of trees.

Orkney Archive Ref: S1/6 dated 9th January 1933



In 1935, this printed notice was displayed in the town:

Courtesy of Stromness Museum

These restrictions did dampen enthusiasm somewhat and the Orcadian of the 30th of December 1937 reported that 'A requisition was made for Yule Tree and we understand a tree was obtained in a legal enough manner, but any attempt to pull it through the street surely fizzled out, for none made its appearance so far as we know.'

Attempts were made during the next decade or so to resurrect this Christmas tradition but, along with the Stromness ba' game, it eventually fell into obscurity.


Until 2017! Read here about the very popular return of the Stromness Yule Log which attracted over 200 participants and huge crowds: https://www.northlinkferries.co.uk/orkney-blog/the-stromness-yule-log-pull/




Information taken from:


Uppies and Doonies by John Robertson
Stromness, A History by Bryce Wilson
History of Stromness 1900-1972 by James Troup
Editions of the Orcadian as mentioned.

20 Days of Orkney Trees #16

We have been looking back through the mists of time for the last 15 posts (as is our wont), but now let us whisk you into the future, Doc Brown style! No flux capacitors required, simply allow your eyes to drift down the page and alight upon the diagram below. It is a plan for the grounds of Kirkwall's new Balfour Hospital.


Existing trees are shown in black and white and are surrounded by proposed plantings of various trees, shrubs and hedgerows plus herbaceous wetlands and ornamental water lilies. The green area at the top right is to be planted with apple trees and soft fruit bushes whilst the ponds are to be surrounded by a 'woodland glade' containing rowan, whitebeam and birch trees planted with woodland wildflower.


We can only see it in our mind's eye right now, but it's looking pretty great to us. The name of the site is to be Arcadia Park:

Orkney Archive Reference D1/1616

20 Days of Orkney Trees #15

Orkney Herald dated 25th December 1935

An excerpt from the Orkney Herald today, in which the council discussed the removal of some trees from the grounds of the Earl's Palace as they were obscuring the building in photographs taken by visitors. The Earl's Palace was the only building of its type in Scotland and was therefore popular with tourists.


As you can see from the Tom Kent image below, the grounds were full of trees:

Tom Kent negative no. 2627

But are these not beautiful photographs?:

Tom Kent negative no. 2630

Tom Kent negative no. 2649



The chairman professed himself to be 'very much attached to every tree that grows in Orkney' but the Dean of Guild, although 'loath to see any tree taken away', pointed out that many had been planted earlier in the year for the jubilee. A Ha! This must have been why the saplings were being planted in the willows area by be-hatted officials in Day 4 of our tree-tastic advent.


The occasion in question was the silver jubilee of George V and there was a brief mention of the trees being planted earlier on in the year:

Orkney herald dated 8th May 1935



It was decided to allow the removal of 6 or 7 trees as they were thought to be on their way out due to old age. The clerk guessed this age to be about 100 and said that his grandfather, Dr Logie had planted them.

20 Days of Orkney Trees #14

Most of the archive staff are not Orkney-born and so we often ask our Very Orcadian Colleague to enlighten us when puzzled by local dialect, confused by 'Orcadian ways' or curious about growing up in the County.

I asked VOC about his early tree memories and he talked about a small wood being planted outside his school. Said wood is now full of hefty -trunked trees but our colleague remembers them being 'nothing but sticks'.

I asked what year this could have been was told to mind my own beeswax. Undeterred, I looked through the Phoenix Photographic collection (Dougie Shearer's archive) and found this great shot of all the tiny, newly planted saplings with the path winding through them. I think this photo dates from the early 1960s but don't tell VOC I said that...

20 Days of Orkney Trees #13



Tom Kent image negative no. 2461

Another 'big house' garden today. Papdale house stands in central Kirkwall behind its namesake school. The children of the school have the use of a walled garden, known as 'the Secret Garden' which was attached to the old house. Home to many mature trees and allotments, you can read more about the garden, which has recently been renovated by Orkney Blide Trust here: https://theorkneynews.scot/2018/06/29/orkneys-secret-creative-garden/




Papdale house was built in 1807 by Malcolm Laing, (Advocate, historian and M.P. for Orkney from 1807-1812) and, in August 1814, he entertained an old friend from his legal days, Sir Walter Scott. As noted, in the article above, there is a rumour mentioned that Sir Walter was responsible for the avenues of Laburnam trees within the garden. He was only in Kirkwall for a couple of days, so it seems unlikely that he actually planted them himself. He did, however, note the scarcity of trees, so perhaps strong hints were made...

'All vegetables grow here freely in the gardens and there are one or two attempts at trees where they are sheltered by walls. How ill they succeed may be conjectured by our bringing with us a quantity of brushwood, commissioned by Malcolm Laing from Aberbrothock, to be sticks to his pease.'

Walter Scott in Northern Lights

Papdale walled garden on the 1902 OS map.



Malcolm Laing's childhood home was a town house in Kirkwall and was, according to his brother Samuel Laing's biographer Ray Fereday, 'remarkable in Samuel's youth for having three trees growing in its front yard. The house survives, with a ground-floor extension for two shops, and one decrepit sycamore remains, long known as the big tree.'


Earlier, in the same book, Samuel himself remembers the three trees as being plane trees:

'We lived in that house in Kirkwall a little below the broad street which is distinguished by two or three middling sized Plane Trees, which were planted by my father and are almost the only trees in the country.'

Perhaps the sycamore was planted after the Laings' residence.

The author of the preface to Samuel's autobiography, William P. L. Thomson was not just a historian, he also served as the rector of Kirkwall Grammar School from 1971-1990, living in Papdale House and, with his wife, tending the garden and its trees.

An aerial view of the Kirkwall Grammar School can be seen below, with the garden just behind it:

This photo was taken in the mid 70s and the walled area does seem quite sparsely treed compared to the garden today. The woodlands either side, however, seem in fine fettle and have been added to recently by pupils of the Grammar school.

Information taken from:

Northern Lights by Sir Walter Scott

The Autobiography of Samuel Laing of Kirkwall, edited & supplemented by R. P. Fereday with a preface by W.P.L. Thomson

Kirkwall Grammar School - From Sang School to Comprehensive, by W.P.L. Thomson

Who Was Who in Orkney by W. S. Hewison

Orkney's Secret Creative Garden in The Orkney News by Fiona Grahame







20 Days of Orkney Trees #2

Yesterday, we wrote about Kirkwall's Big Tree and today we shall tell you about another important Kirkwall tree.


Every year, a tree is cut down in Bringsværd Forest, near Grimstad in Norway, and is brought to Kirkwall Cathedral as a symbol of friendship between the two towns.






This tradition began in 1987:

Orcadian 12th November 1987





Saint Magnus Cathedral was founded by Kali Kalason, later to become Rognvald, nephew of St Magnus. Young Kali grew up in Norway and perhaps played in the woods which would later provide Kirkwall with our Christmas 'big tree'.

I want you to make a vow... you'll build a stone minster at Kirkwall more magnificent than any in Orkney, that you'll have it dedicated to your Uncle the holy Earl Magnus and provide it with all the funds it will need to flourish.

St Rognvald's father, Kol Kalasan to his son in the Orkneyinga Saga

More information can be found here: https://www.orcadian.co.uk/a-christmas-gift-from-grimstad/

and you can see Orkney Islands Council convener Harvey Johnston cutting down this year's tree here: https://theorkneynews.scot/2019/11/12/orkney-norway-friendship-marked-with-2019-christmas-tree-cutting-in-bringsvaerd-forest/ (Mr Johnston does somewhat undermine the whole thrust of our advent theme by saying 'Orkney has no trees' in the article. Grrrrrrrr.)

Information taken from Orkney-An Illustrated Architectural Guide and an article in edition #73 of Living Orkney, both by Leslie Burgher.

20 Days of Orkney Trees #1

Oh we love advent readers!
We love it!
We LOVE it!


This year, we bring you 20 Days of Orkney Trees. Every day until Christmas (except Sundays), we shall prove that, contrary to popular belief, Orkney DOES have trees. Like, at least 5 or so?


The Orkney Isles (with the exception of hilly Hoy), are relatively flat with both wind and rabbits proving a challenge to hopeful tree-planters but, as you shall see, there are many wonderful sylvan corners; some ancient, some Victorian and a great many newer additions.


We just have to start with one tree. THE tree of Kirkwall, known by all as 'The Big Tree'.






The photo above was taken by Tom Kent and shows that the large Sycamore stands right in the middle of the shopping street. It had originally been part of a walled garden as can be seen below...

...and when the wall was removed, the tree stayed.

The Big Tree protected by a cage.

Over the years, there has been much discussion of this hardy plant and it has been threatened with destruction many times. Indeed, its obituary has already been written by Ernest Walker Marwick:




Click to enlarge

 In 1875, T. H. Slater demanded that the council prune the branches on his premises' side 'to avoid litigation and by way of compromise'. The council agreed:

As recently as 1987, there was a council meeting held to discuss its removal but a decision was reached to pollard it instead. The Big Tree still stands in Albert Street, Kirkwall, having outlived the author of its obituary by over 40 years. There is a large metal pole through its trunk, but it still stands tall and surely contributed to the High Street winning the 'most beautiful in Scotland' accolade last month: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-north-east-orkney-shetland-50521432

Information taken from Kirkwall Town Council minutes dated 3/2/1875,

Orkney Archive reference D31/73/1and

Orkney County Council minutes dated 6/10/1987.

Peace On Earth 1918 - An Archive Advert Calender #24

Happy Christmas to you all dear readers! May your days be merry and bright!


Read below for a description of Christmas Eve in Kirkwall exactly 100 years ago taken from the Orkney Herald dated 1st January 1919:

The Orkney Library and Archive shall be closed to the public

from 5pm on Saturday 22nd of December until

9.15am on Saturday the 5th of January.

Peace On Earth 1918 - An Archive Advent Calander #23

Yet another reminder that many soldiers were yet to be demobilised by the end of December 1918.  "A Christmas Greeting frae the Front", from Herbert Sinclair, 1918.

 

Peace On Earth 1918 - An Archive Advert Calendar #22

Orkney Archive Reference D51/3/8 - Click to enlarge

One of the more visually satisfying archives is the collection of weather observation charts compiled between 1890 and 1938. Systematic weather observations were begun in Orkney in 1827, by Rev Charles Clouston, minister in Sandwick.


 Although reputedly the second oldest complete set of weather records in Scotland, the records held by the Archives begin in 1890. The first recorder of these was Magnus Spence F.E.I.S. in Stenness. When he moved to Deerness he continued the records there, and was succeeded about 1919 by William Delday. William J Moar took over about 1927.


The chart above shows the weather for December 1918. It tells us that one hundred years ago today it was 'cloudy, overcast & dull, with rain.' and on Christmas day 1918 it was misty and cloudy with rain, but warm.

Click to enlarge.

Peace On Earth 1918 - An Archive Advent Calender #21

The sketch above was drawn in December 1918 by Lieutenant Jowsey, a colleague of Rev. Dr. T. Crouther Gordon, author of Early Flying In Orkney - Seaplanes in World War 1.


Dr T. Crouther Gordon, who served as a pilot in the Royal Naval Air Service and the Royal Air Force in the First World War from 1917-1919, recalled vividly his experiences as pilot of aeroplanes, seaplanes and flying-boats, hunting the German U-boats that harried Britain's sea-routes. He escorted from the air the surrendered German High Seas Fleet into Scapa Flow in November 1918.

Dr Crouther Gordon received the Distinguished Flying Cross from King George V in July 1919.


The book is based on Crouther Gordon's diary and pilot log. His entries for December 1918 read:


9th December: At 10.40a.m. in F.3 4237, took four ratings to view the German Fleet from the air.


10th December: In Short 2652 with Flight-Sergeant Ford flew round the German Fleet.


On 15th December half of the personnel were sent on leave on S.S. Vienna.


Time now passed with hockey matches against teams from H.M.S. Revenge and H.M.S. Orion, football between officers and men. After Christmas dinner Major Mills presented me with a special cup as a memento of the occasion.

Peace On Earth 1918 - An Archive Advent Calendar #20

After years of food restriction, drills and danger, the crews aboard the Grand Fleet enjoyed a magnificent Christmas meal and exchanged yet more hearty good wishes.


Hurrah!

Peace On Earth 1918 - An Archive Advent Calendar #19

A similar post to last Monday - Stromness Town Cuncil had a meeting 100 years ago today. Among the topics discussed were: the continued insistence of the admiralty upon permits in December 1918, the lifting of war-time postal restrictions and a request for some captured German guns with which to decorate a proposed war memorial.

Orkney Archive Reference S1/5

Peace On Earth 1918 - An Archive Advent Calendar #18

Some letters received by Highland Park, whisky distillers today. Most of the folder we looked through contained orders from businesses and offices, 'Please send 3 casks of whisky', 'please send whisky at your earliest convenience', 'we have run out of Scotch and are in great need of more.'






Two letters stood out, however. The first one, from a paint and decorating supplies company declaring that, since the signing of the armistice they were now able to return to providing non-military customers...

Orkney Archive Reference D4/20/6 - click to enlarge

...and the second letter which follows on from Wednesday's blog and is an apology from a printing and stationers explaining that there is a delay in service due to the large number of staff suffering from influenza:

Orkney Archive Reference D4/20/6 - click to enlarge

Peace On Earth 1918 - An Archive Advent Calender #17

100 years ago today, Orkney County Council held their AGM. Towards the end of the meeting, they discussed the need to petition the admiralty to lift war-time restrictions on the waters surrounding Kirkwall. This would affect postal boats and civilian access to the island amongst other things.




Orkney Archive Reference CO3/5 - click to enlarge

Peace On Earth 1918 - An Archive Advent Calendar #16

100 years ago today, Orcadian poet and marine naturalist Robert Rendall received the letter below from Mrs Alexander McKenzie of Stornoway, Lewis. She addresses him as Bro., presumably short for brother, but I think this is because they were both members of the Christian Brethren

Click to enlarge

Orkney Archive Reference D27/7/6





Rendall served in Scapa Flow aboard HMS Imperieuse and wrote the poem below :

 

Orkney After The War

Now from the pool the tide of war recedes

And upon the water's surface filtered falls

The old tranquillity. Wave the green sea-weeds

Fanning their fronds fearless of sudden squalls.

Ols patient limpets scythe the meads aquatic

And rosy crinoids radiate starry twinkles

While hermit crabs with scuttlings acrobatic

Dispute the tenancy of vacant periwinkles.

Merchant anenomes spread their hungry tentacles

And earnest cattie-buckies keep their social conventicles.

Peace On Earth 1918 - An Archive Advent Calendar #15

Today's post continues with the German ships interned in Scapa Flow from the end of 1918. The Orkney Archive holds a typewritten memoir written by John J L Tulloch who was born in 1909. The account was written when Mr Tulloch was an older man and describes what life was like living on a farm on a small island in Scapa Flow during World War 1, the British Fleet, the Hampshire, the Churchill barriers, the Royal Oak.


He describes the arrival of the defeated Germans:


So on a dull November day the German High Sea Fleet with Rear Admiral Ludwig von Reuter in command steamed into Scapa Flow through Hoxa Sound with the dull winter sunshine glinting on their grey hulls. Line ahead they came escorted by British warships, those mighty leviathans of battle that had only ventured out once in full force at the Battle of Jutland from their snug havens in Germany.


The German ships ceased to become a novelty to the young lad:


My home stood near the shore on the West side therefore the battleships...became an everyday scene to me as the months went past, in fact some of them were so near to my home that on a calm day we could hear the sailors talking or singing quite clearly. On a Sunday a brass band on the S.M.S. Frederick derr Grosse used to play their German military tunes when the weather was good, so those great ships became a part of my childhood days...


John also remembers hearing the men at Christmas 1918:



Orkney Archive Reference D1/1100